Are my pearls real? Did I get scammed into buying fake ones? What should I be on the lookout for when assessing pearl authenticity?

These are all valid questions to ask when adding pearls to your jewelry collection. After all, the most expensive pearls in the world can range anywhere between two to tens of thousands of dollars, so anyone willing to make that kind of investment should certainly know better. Whether you’re looking to enter pearl-collecting or simply looking to explore pearl jewelry for the first time, arming yourself with the knowledge to help you identify high-quality pearls in a sea of fakes is a must.

Follow these expert-approved steps that every kind of pearl purchaser can follow to guarantee you’re buying the real deal, and nothing less. 

How to Check If Pearl is Real or Fake?

The Basics 

First, understand that real pearls are those produced by mollusks. There are saltwater pearls and freshwater pearls, too. Pearls that make it to the market are often cultured which means they were produced with some degree of human intervention—this doesn’t make them fake. Oftentimes, human intervention is necessary to ensure that harvested pearls are of the right size, shape, and color. 

On the other hand, fake pearls are likely to look more like beads. They are made of plastic, glass, or even shells that are coated to give them a pearl-like experience (luster). 

TEST 1: Texture 

Pearls might look smooth to the naked eye, but they should actually be ever so slightly rough especially when they create fiction. To test this out, you can either: gently rub two pearls together or rub a pearl on a smooth surface. You should be able to feel a bit of grittiness (sandiness) when you do. Real pearls may even create a thin layer of powder when rubbed together. Fake pearls will simply glide over each other or other surfaces and feel extremely smooth.

Note that some people also perform a “tooth test” meant to achieve the same results. Some jewelers or sellers might not allow this, however, as you may damage their pearls and they may not be able to sell them. The tooth test is when you softly bite down on a pearl. You should also feel some grittiness between the pearl and your tooth as described earlier. Fake pearls might feel harder, or even slip, considering their smooth surfaces. 

TEST 2: Spot blemishes 

It might sound counterintuitive to desire imperfections in your pearls, but these little flaws are good indicators that they are authentic. Real pearls produced by mollusks will never be perfectly smooth; if a pearl has small pits, dimples, or bumps, that’s a good thing. Fake pearls will look artificially “clean” and perhaps even be of uniform size and shape. In reality, there are no two pearls that are identical and it is this inherent uniqueness of each that makes them valuable. 

TEST 3: Pay attention to shape and color

As mentioned above, be wary of pearls that look exactly the same. You’re likely being offered fakes if, for example, “pearls” in a necklace all line up perfectly. Instead, go for pearls that show some irregularity in shape. The world’s best pearls can appear oval, round, circular, or even button or drop-shaped. 

As for color, real pearls will look multi-dimensional in hue. Even darker-colored pearls, including black ones, will have observable differences in color. To see this more clearly, string pearls together. Every single pearl on that strand should have slight color variations and at times, even secondary colors peaking through (black pearls may have under or overtones of green or gray, for instance). Fake pearl colors will look the same, all the time, in any kind of lighting, no matter what angle you view them from. 

TEST 4: Feel temperature 

Real pearls are sensitive to temperature. They might start cool to the touch, often colder than room temperature, but once worn or held in your hand, should quickly absorb your skin’s warmth. Fake pearls will do this too, especially those made of glass, but will markedly take longer to warm up. 

TEST 5: Check for drill holes

This is especially important for pearls that are strung together in necklaces, chokers, or bracelets. Fake pearls will have drill holes that show chipping around the area. Why does this happen? Because the coating that gives materials like glass and plastic that artificial sheen to make them appear pear-like chips off when these drill holes are made. This does not happen with real pearls. Drill holes are cleaner and should also be noticeably smaller. 

TEST 6: Observe luster

There’s a reason why the word “pearly” exists. It was born out of real pearls’ natural luster, which is a quality that allows them to reflect light evenly. Fake pearls might have a shine to them, but this shine won’t have the same depth and clarity. They may imitate how shiny pieces of plastic reflect light, which is a dead giveaway that a pearl is not genuine. Real pearls will give off an iridescent glow, whereas their fake counterparts are going to be dull and cloudy.  

TEST 7: Weigh them

Pearls can be measured in carats too, but some sellers or jewelers will use a troy scale for more accurate results. Real pearls should be relatively heavier on average than fake ones. Occasionally, “manual” weighing might give you the answers you’re looking for. Simply hold a pearl in your hand and throw them a small distance in the air (with something to cushion their fall of course, should you fail to catch them). Real pearls will have a weight to them. Fake pearls will feel incredibly light or in some cases, incredibly heavy. 

Are your pearls real or fake?

Finally, you can always bring your pearl purchases to a pro jeweler or appraiser to get them evaluated. They will leave you with no doubts as to whether your pearls are real or are just as valuable as a plastic bangle. 

When it comes to appraising your pearl jewelry, Willyn Villarica is your trusted expert for jewelry appraisal services. As one of the few certified gemologists in the Philippines, a graduate of the GIA Graduate Gemologist® program, and the only NAJA-recognized Filipino appraiser, she brings unparalleled expertise to every assessment. With her extensive experience, you can trust Willyn Villarica to provide accurate and reliable evaluations of your pearls and other precious gemstones. Let her expertly appraise your pearl jewelry.

Send your inquiries via willynvillarica@willynvillaricajewelry.com or through Facebook (Willyn Villarica Jewelry) or Instagram (@willynvillarica_jewelry).